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True or False.

1. In the case of a pure standing wave there is zero vertical motion at the antinode.

2. The process of wave refraction can cause an increase in wave height.

3. The surf similarity parameter (ξo) is a non-dimensional number used to determine whether wave energy will be predominantly reflected or dissipated by wave breaking.

4. The amplitude of surf beat oscillations decrease when they moves closer to the shoreline.

5. Rip current flow velocities are greater when the tide is low than when the tide is high.

6. Astronomical tides in the ocean behave as shallow water waves.

7. The three main factors influencing wave growth are wind speed, fetch length and duration.

8. When waves encounter shallower water the wave height increases due to shoaling and consequently the particle velocity decreases.

9. Swell is normally short crested with low frequencies; and sea is normally long crested with high frequencies.

10. For a progressive linear wave, the pressure field is a result of two contributions, the hydrostatic pressure and the dynamic pressure.

11. Most of the wind energy is transferred in to low frequency wave energy; then this low frequency wave energy is transferred to higher frequencies by the interaction of the low frequency movement with the adjacent slow moving water particles.

12. For winds over a developing sea, the surface roughness and shape is ever changing.

13. The zero up-crossing method is the most common method for analysing a waverecord in the time domain.

14. In shallow water, at the point when the crest particle velocity becomes greater than the wave celerity the wave becomes unstable and eventually breaks.

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  • Reference No.:- M91839

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